Nightfall – our Arcona 430

When we left you on Sunday morning, we were motoring off Brighton in the sunshine.

In the afternoon we were able to sail at last and made good time towards Portsmouth, shaving at least an hour off our original eta of 7.30. As we approached the Forts at the Eastern Entrance of the Solent the sun started to set and we started thinking nostalgically of ‘Nightfall’ coming to her home port at nightfall. Ah! As we turned to starboard, skipper had just ordered the crew to harden-up to make the the most of the last run into the entrance when we heard Solent Coastguard issuing a notice on the VHF to all yachts in the vicinity of the harbour entrance to watch out for a person reported to have fallen in the water. We communicated with the Coast guard in return that we would help to look, fetched our biggest torches, put the sails away, engine on and motored up and down looking all around for almost and hour until our torches expired. By this time there were many police launches, RNLI vessels and and a helicopter with powerful search lights looking, It was with sadness that we gave up looking and went into our berth to be met by our friends who had arrived to meet us. The Champagne we had saved and opened to celebrate on this special occasiaon just didn’t taste so good. (24 hours later we were to learn on the local news that a body had been found, having ‘fallen’ from a ferry).

However, after 869 miles, Nightfall is home, tucked up in Haslar Marina.

Thank you all for watching and commenting.

First Mate Karen & Skipper Tom

Yesterday was very sad as we said goodbye to Tim as it signalled the beginning of the end of Nightfall’s 1^st adventure. Tim had been such good fun and a most diligent navigator but he needed to jump ship to get home and start prepping for work on Monday, as well as catching up with his lovely wife Donna, so we understood. Since they got married as recently as 12 weeks before, it was most generous of her to wave him off for 2 weeks without her. Mind you, while he was away, she did book their honeymoon (just in case he was tempted to run off to the Canaries in November and do another ARC crossing, clever girl!)

We managed to persuade Graham Eggleton to come for the ride to Eastbourne and his wife was kind enough not to mind either, provided he still got to his mother’s for lunch at midday on Sunday!!

But first,we wanted lunch and beer and we enjoyed both at Cullen’s bar in Dover which was great. After buying some fresh crab for sandwiches for today, we cast off & out into the open sea. What did we find? No wind! Poor Graham. However, we enjoyed the motor sail in lovely weather along to Eastbourne and only just got into the lock as it was low tide bearing in mind this boats draws 2.55 metres! After tying up,we raced along to the Thai restaurant at 21.45 hours and had a lovely meal. Back on board, after a quick malt it was bedtime and how good that felt after 2 nights at sea; the boat was still. Lovely.

Graham jumped ship after breakfast in order to have any chance of catching a train as the 1^st part of the aim to get to Newbury before 12.00. We were sad to see him go.

And then there were 3. We cast off at 9.20 and exited through the lock and out … no wind again.

The morning has been spent watching the world go by and ticking off the south coast mentally as we went East. Dave Cranstone, called to say he was watching with the binoculors at Birling Gap. James in Greece sent a text to say that he could see we were approaching The Seven Sisters, and other friends have been in touch to enquire what our ETA is likely to be and do we need a lift back to Hungerford? Tim Devlin sent a text to say’ nearly Holmen’ making us roar with laughter. We feel humbled to be surrounded by so much attention and good wishes. Thanks everyone.

Our aim is that Nightfall will take a temporary berth in Haslar Marina for a few days while we decide what to do about the ‘snags’ that we have to discuss with Arcona UK. We may take a month or so at Hamble Point where they are based.

For the moment, we are sorting things out so we are not on board until midnight doing it after we arrive in Gosport, and oh yes….. We’d better call Haslar hadn’t we?

Final blog entries about this trip will be posted over the next few days, but for now,

Cheerio.

Karen & co.

You might have seen a picture in the gallery of me? I’m a little knitted bear with a green ribbon (Is there any other colour on Nightfall?) and curious smile, thanks to the kind embroidery skills of a friend who took pity on me as she said I looked too sad. How did I get my name?

I was found in a muddy puddle just outside The Cooper’s Arms near Shamrock Quay in Southampton, the night before the Luijane Cup Race in May 1987 which is one of a series of RORC races that can count as qualifiers if you plus your boat want to take part in the Fastnet Race, which 8 people plus me did on a boat called Hoodlum, an OOD 34 that we chartered from Britannia Sailing. After being taken home and washed I have been part of Tom and Karen’s family and their boat mascot.

Ever since, T&K bought Nightlife in 2001 (their previous boat)I have lived permanently on board.

As far as Bears go, I now regard myself as well-travelled. I know that Paddington Bear came from Peru but I think that upon reflection I have travelled further. As well as the usual cruising along the south coast, I must have been to France about 40 times, as well as The Channel Islands, The Isles of Scilly, a circumnavigation of the UK,via Lands End, Milford Haven, Dublin and Strangford Lough near Belfast.

Once through the Crinan Canal I enjoyed 2 weeks cruising the Inner Hebrides and then the boat was laid up for the winter in Scotland. In the spring of 2005 I went through the Caledonian Canal to Inverness and then later travelled further north to The Orkneys. Later that year, Nightlife sailed south and so I ended up back in Haslar Marina in Gosport.

Throughout, 2005-2008, Tom continued to race offshore and so I went wherever he went too, whether I wanted to or not. The 2007 Fastnet race was pretty scary I can tell you. I’ve actually done 3 Fastnet Races which is more than ‘er indoors who has only done 1. (‘ees done 8). I did my bit to rescue a Frenchman who fell off his boat in 2002 and was rescued by the crew and ‘im indoors won a medal!

But my biggest adventure was the cruise to the canaries in 2009 and then taking part in a Transatlantic Race to St Lucia. ‘im indoors and his crew won the racing division. Winning was dead good and so were the parties. In 2010, after cruising north to Antigua, we took part in Antigua Race week which was fun but blooming hot for a wooly bear. In the summer of 2010, Nightlife was craned home on a cargo vessel, now that was exciting and ‘im indoors decided to look for a new boat.

And so, what about my new home on Nightfall?

Well, readers you have to remember that I am not allowed on deck so can’t comment on much up top but the ‘comfort’ areas down below I can. Nightfall is 2 feet longer than Nightlife and this means that she is wider too and has a larger saloon area. The table is bigger and more robust and the galley is well laid out with more cupboards for ‘stuff’ Both him and her are pleased that the rubbish bin can now be stored inside the cupboard under the sink and not dangling in the saloon. There are white curtains so I get a bit of privacy now. The hatches have fly nets so none of that nonsense with mozzies that we have had in the past. The fabric on the beds and seating areas is a subject of much annoyance. It is the wrong colour and Missus isn’t having any of it. It has got be changed for what they ordered. The main sleeping cabin is upfront and both him & her are still coming to terms with that change. At the back there are 2 double cabins and with the ability to turn the central cushion area into another large double berth, it will sleep 4 couples with ease. The malts locker is bigger! Tom’s beautiful, black carbon mast can seen and admired below.

So far with this boat I have travelled over 800 miles, from Sweden, through Denmark & Germany, bypassed Holland but sailed in Dutch territorial waters and am now being motored towards Eastbourne where we are mooring for the night.

What a life!

Hoodlum Bear.

We were most impressed with the speed and efficiency of the Yanmar dealers in Cuxhaven plus some help from the riggers to mend a broken life-line. After a top-up of diesel and water,we left at 13.00 and through the lifting bridge again.

We have just arrived in Dover after 48 hours, non-stop sailing through 2 nights to arrive back in Blighty Hurrah! The 1^st 24 hours was under engine with very little wind but the past 24 hours has seen variable winds and rolling seas. We had very little opportunity to post blogs during that time, as we were too far away from land, so hopefully you all knew where Nightfall was due to the AIS tracer?

With regret we did not stop in any of the Fresian Islands or Holland, not wanting to lose any time with favourable winds.

So here we are, very tired and gasping for beer and showers!

Graham Eggleton and wife, Sue have just arrived to say hello. Our 1^st social visitors. So that’s all for now,

Karen, Eddi, and Tom. (Tim Devlin has just jumped ship)

The day started at 7.30 when we got up and cast off from the pile mooring on a crisp,cold morning. Eddie took the helm and waited patiently for his bacon & egg butty. After breakfast, Karen did some washing and hung it out on the life lines to dry. By this time,Tim was on the helm and wrapped up in hat and gloves against the cold. It was great to be on flat water and catch up with the blog and photo gallery. Skipper was a bit anxious when I uploaded 27 photos but all in a good cause. Lunch was tuna mayo sandwiches eaten in the cockpit at the new cockpit table, washed down with coffee, tango drink and biscuits

At 15.00 we had transited the canal and were stooging round the Bransbuttal end waiting for our turn to go into the lock. The canal is very straight, with trees lining one side and odd sections of industry with factories & cranes. We saw some Eider ducks & not many people know that eider down come from these ducks. Eddie noticed that not one boat overtook us on the route east. They were all coming the other way

We had to wait at the canal end again but by 17.00 we were inside the lock after watching Cargo ship, Nosmo King faff about a bit.

At 15.45 the other side in the North Sea, we faced a 15 knot head wind, with Nosmo King charging by and the Politzie intercepting us to inform us rather nicely that we were deviating from the main channel and would we move over? They were also concerned we did not have a name on the transom of the boat. Tuff! This was followed by a cute manoeuvre when the politzie rib was recovered by running at speed up the back of a bigger police launch. It was quite something to watch.

After seeing some traditional fishing smacks with ‘sweeps’ extended either side, Tom said, ‘ How often do you see a traditional boat fishing like that? Well I have just seen 4. So Tim said, it must be a traditional fishing boat convention.

So we were thinking, 2 hours and we will be tied up in Cuxhaven when skip said, I think we should sail through the night to catch up and make good use of the good weather. Mrs S not keen but was persuaded. So plan B was to go into port to eat, revictal, regroup and come out. An hour later, skip realised that the engined really needed its 50 miles oil-change and at 40 miles it was better now than later in UK at 80 hours plus. So he & Tim retired below to consult the chart, engine books ec. & as luck would have it found a yanmar dealer in Cuxhavn. Tim called his Brother, Peter who is a fluent German speaker. He called the man at Boots U Schiffswert to see they could fit us in tomorrow morning. Hurrah! They can. So we went under the lifting bridge (very obliging lock keeper) and into the inner basin & tied up at their yard.

We walked into town,bought some food rations & and ate at a jolly Mexican restaurant. Back to Nightfall for malts & bed.

Seglerin Karen.

xx

It is a cold but very sunny morning.

The gallery photos have been updated this morning.

Karen

It was a beautiful morning at 6.30 when I walked down the quayside to the bakers to fetch fresh croissants and Danish pastries. They were wonderful both at 7 a.m. and then late morning. The Danish pastries were sublime and made the ones that one buys in the UK seem like cardboard.

We cast off at 8 and motored out of the harbour through the clearly marked channel (is it SO easy in the daylight) and out into the Store Baelt as mentioned in previous blogs. At 10.15 we turned south and put the sails up, although with one reef in the main as it was still fairly windy. The sun came out and it looked liked being a great day. At 11.00 we were off the south end of Langeland. This was a nice run down the island with good views especially the square lighthouse. At 12.37 Tim announced that we had entered German waters. Eddie then lowered the Danish courtesy flag and hoisted the German one. By 14.30 we were off the fairway buoy at the entrance to the Kieler Bucht. (Kiel estuary) We saw a German naval boat, many cargo boats and ferries and a Police boat. We thought they may intercept us. But no, not interested.

Tim pointed out the German naval war memorial building and the German U Boat on the shore next to it which commemorates the many German sailors who lost their lives in both world wars.

At 16.10 we were at the entrance to the canal (There was a plaque on the wall of the canal commemorating Kaiser Wilhelm II commissioning & opening it 1908 – 1914. He was Queen Victoria’s Grandson) It was another hour at least before we were allowed through by which time we only had just over an hour of the time allowed before the 19.00 curfew on pleasure craft,which was annoying as we did not have time to make the marina. So we decided to pick up a pile mooring which took us an hour as it wasn’t easy lassoing the piles.

At 20.00, we retired below for a cooked supper on board with wine & beer, sitting snugged up with the rain hammering down and Wally wind providing power to the batteries.

After more than 300 miles, we are now well on our way home. Hurrah!

Karen, Tom, Tim & Eddie

The first 6 days of nightfalls life on the waves have been challenging sailing in difficult conditions, as you may have read in the blog hitherto. the wind has been continually from the west and in the range of 25-35 knots all week ,effectively preventing us from sailing our original course across the skaggerak until saturday,when we were blessed with a moderate northerly. This means that we were all a bit tired by the time yesterdays wind blew up from nought to 35 knots in four hours . Today we therefore find ourselves in Nakskov as a refuge port, slightly out of our route down the Stare Baelt, Denmarks major waterway between the Baltic and the Kattegat. Todays forecast wind being 40-50 knots from the SSW, we unanimously agreed on a day to see a bit of Denmark

Nakskov, rather surprisingly,is a little danish gem . Once Denmarks third largest city it has clearly seen more prosperous times, but there are some fine , if small, buildings and streets, and a church that boasts a swedish cannon ball fired into its side in the 17th century. There are several good statues including a fine one of Charles X, monarch until 1949,who reassured his population during the war occupation by riding daily through the streets of Copenhagen to show he was not afraid of the neighbours moving in for a while.  The Danes still love their flag, which appears everywhere, and the royal family. like our prince william, the crown prince has recently married a commoner, in his case an attractive australian . The news-stands are full of their latest exploits.

So what’s to do in Nakskov ? There is a shipbuilding museum room showing  the heady days of the Nakskov rush to build. There is a Russian submarine here, no-one knows why . We started at the opticians to get Eddies spectacle repaired. Its lovely that a danish lady will give him a free screw. we then went off to the supermarket. Like sensible people (ie not the swedes) they sell wine in the supermarket. That speeds up the shopping. We came back and loaded the boat. Then off to the chandlery. In spite of Toms fantastic computers on board we need the paper back up. The Danes in any event produce beautiful charts, and we now have a full set covering the entire journey. Then back to the town centre for coffee with Karen, at the trendy coffee bar (the other one may be run by a lady from skegness). This place is by the chiming bells which run out eighteen tunes, thanks to the support of the Lollands Bank. What nice bankers they have. Its all very sensible, well-kept, and friendly. They do seem a bit surprised that we don’t speak German, and one old boy came down to ask me if the red duster was Russian flag, so a little cultural diplomacy has been done today.

In months to come , as the Nakskovites gather of another drizzly evening, no doubt the conversation will come round again to the strange time that big white boat came into town ith a big red flag, proclaiming friendship on behalf the United Kingdom. We come away with some nice souvenirs, including the free pen-knives from JGB marine (nice chap).

Horatia the cat

Captain Pugwash answered my prayers at least; no wind and a lovely sunrise at 6 a.m. After a quick wind and route discussion we set off at 7.20 after watching a cat walking on & off the Danish vessel Baunen with what appeared to be easy nonchalance.

Eddie took the helm under engine as we had no wind (what a relief!) and Tim cooked bacon butties using the lovely bread that we bought from the restaurant after our meal last night. (Good move, Mrs S) They were truly scrumptious. The Store Baelt Bridge was visible though 14 miles away and we motored nearer and nearer under engine watching other vessels approach and go under. Eddie took us under at 11. 45 while we all watched with held breaths We had plenty of room of course but bridges always look lower than they are. Tom’s call to the bridge control on VHF channel 11 was it’s 1^st use of our new VHF.

Not long after that we had salami and salad rolls and crisps. Tim took the helm and was found singing. Whilst this was most enjoyable it clearly aggravated the wind as it blew up and for the rest of the afternoon built in strength. Whilst we had a good breeze for sailing, it wasn’t from a good direction so it was soon quite clear that we wouldn’t reach Kiel in the light that night and so we decided to make for Nakskov instead.

It was a long slog to windward with one reef in and then for the 1^st time in a week, we decided to tack! This was the 1st time this week that Nightfall sailed on the Port tack (sails on the Starboard side, wind coming over the Port side). We found that we were able to sail faster on that tack. This isn’t unusual with sailing boats but will lead to much discussion over the next few months about why and what can be done to improve the performance.

We than had 2 hours of hard sailing as we tried to make the start of the passage to Nakskov harbour. Tim navigated us away from low lying mud banks but it seemed to take forever going nowhere. At 18 hours we dropped the sails and motored into the start of the entrance channel. We had thought we would be in by 16.00 so that shows how the wind can play havoc with the best laid plans.

I can only describe the next 2 hours as extremely challenging as we battled to follow the unlit channel markers in a winding but dredged channel deep enough for our keel depth of 2.55 metres. Eddie lost one of the lenses out of his glasses but was lucky enough to catch it. This was most fortunate as he doesn’t have a spare set. By the time we moored in the harbour in the dark, in the rain, at 20.10 we were all very tired, very wet and very hungry.

Eddie prescribed double Rum tot rations and these were devoured with pate and biscuits. As it was blowing a blooming hoolie by the time we had put the boat to bed (sailing term for tying up and tiding up the ropes) it was nearly 21.00 so we decided not to go ashore. Tinned chilli and rice was hastily prepared and consumed with beer followed by malts and chocolate.

Unanimously we decided to have a day off on Monday. After all, said skipper we were supposed to be on holiday! Quite so!!

We fell into bed and slept like logs. No Captain Pug Wash for us tomorrow at 6 a.m.

Yours Aye,

Karen & co

We were up again at 6 with the Captain Pugwash alarm, followed by porridge & off again at 7.30. we had passed the outer mark in the bay by which time we had the main main up & full jib out (our furling head sail is called the number 3 on this boat). We saw our sails in full glory for the 1^st time this week. By midday though, we were reefed again. We had a little finch flying around the boat which seemed lots but he didn’t stay for long. At 13.27 we recorded the log peaking briefly at 13 knots. A few minutes later we put in another reef. ( Non-sailors – more wind,means less sails up and a reef is a way of tying down part of the sail temporarily when strong winds blow. This week we have become quite expert at that).

At 14.10 we turned at Sjaellands lighthouse and decided on the main shipping channel from Gothenburg to Kiel. At 15.15 the Mai Mals Catamaran passed astern and at 15.40 we passed the Isle of Sjerlo. At 15.50 we turned right past the shoals and arrived in Ballen on the Isle of Samso mooring behind what we thought was a Danish Auxiliary Vessel. We unfurled & re furled the jib and realised that somewhere we had lost a jib batten. Darn it!

Today we travelled 84.5 miles, making it our longest passage and furthest to date, plus KNTU – Karen not throwing up. Result! Eddie took several stints at the helm today and was our flag officer. As soon as skipper deemed we were out Swedish waters, he lowered the

Swedish courtesy flag flying in the cross trees (1st set of spreaders from the mast) and hoisted the Danish one.

Ballen is a pretty town and we had a most excellent meal in ‘The Skippery’, lamb shank or entrecôte followed by Belle Helene and Cheese. We found it refreshing to find a restaurant open and one that said we are full but come back later

As we walked back, we discussed that the captain of the Naval ship had invited us for drinks. Did he mean it? Were we too late. As we approached one of the men mad welcoming noises but said as they hadn’t finished their desert, would we like to come and have a look round/you bet! He turned out to be the navigator. He took us on the bridge and explained that they were all volunteers a little like a cross between our RNLI, Greenpeace and Naval reserve duties. He later gave us an old chart showing the clearing height of the Store Braelt bridge. Tom was worried about his black stick clearing underneath it! Skipper Jimmy then joined us and talked for Denmark, explaining about the crew who were on board, what they do, etc. It was interesting. They have a max cruising speed of 10 knots and a fuel tank range of 70 mile…. so we could out range them any time. The vessel was called, Baunen, which had been the name of the Danish Resistance Newspaper during WW II.

We accepted their hospitality of wine and beer for a short while before making our apologies that we needed to be up early the next day which was true. A convivial evening after a good day’s sail.

Off to bed and praying for lighter winds from the right direction.

Karen & co.